Floppy Kid Syndrome

Floppy Kid Syndrome

Floppy Kid Syndrome

Floppy kid syndrome is a killer with a funny name, baby goats can go from funny little bouncing fur balls to dead in a very short time – and this is just one way it can happen.

I am no expert in goats, and leave most of my goat stuff to my wife, but I almost learned the hard way how fragile bottle goats are.

We received some 4 day old bucklings from a Facebook group we are members of, and we jumped in full tilt.  We spend several hundred dollars in housing and fencing, bottles, and milk replacer and starting making plans for a full scale goat army in the back yard.

My wife and I decided that our babies looked thin and decided to fatten them up (seasoned goat farmers are probably sighing and shaking their collective heads at our ignorance) we figured if 2 or 3 daily feedings of 10 ounces was good then 5 feedings of 16-20 would get our new friends fat and sassy in no time.

a few days in my wife noticed one was acting “floppy” – it looked drunk, was unsteady on it’s feet, and had droopy eyelids. – Knowing that baby goats can go from healthy to dead in a day she got worried (cried a little) and yelled at me a lot.

It was pretty cold over the night and I admit my first reaction is that they got cold and needed some energy (they did shiver a little).

At my wife’s urging (and threats of violence) I did more research and learned that baby goats have very sensitive digestive systems and that when a mother goat is overly confined with her babies and cannot keep them from eating too much, or when an ignorant or overzealous new goat farmer bottle feeds too much, the milk does not have enough time to be digested and it sits inside the goat and ferments and rots.  This causes bacteria to grow wild and the stomach to get over acidified.

My research showed that while most people think the kid is weak and think the solution is more feed, doing so would surely kill the goat.  (It also showed that misdiagnosis and treating a weak kid for floppy goat would also surely kill it).

The treatment is (if you can’t get to a vet) – take the goat off of milk for 24/36 hours, replace the feedings with electrolyte (Gatorade or Pedialyte will work if you can’t get goat specific electrolytes) and give a baking soda/water solution to counteract the acid.  A antibiotic/anti toxin is also helpful.

We immediately took those actions, and the next morning took our two bucklings to the vet – Floppy goat was the problem – we were feeding WAY too much.  After accepting a deserved scolding and receiving some antibiotic and instructions to stop being stupid with the feeding we went back home and learned from our mistake.

After 2 days of treatments (8 more days of antibiotic treatment left) our goats are full of energy and are hopping and cavorting around and are looking great.

Please learn from our mistakes and only feed baby goats per the instructions on the back of your milk replacer.

Kitchen DIY: Creme Fraiche

creme fraicheToday we are going to talk Creme Fraiche.

Crme Fraiche is a fermented dairy product used in both hot and cold French cuisine.

I think it is important to note that French does not always mean snooty and haughty (most times it does though).

As a practical person, I am a big fan of what is called “peasant food” – local, nutritious, inexpensive, and plentiful food that is used by the lower economic class as staples. I figure if it was used to keep the average peasant alive in the 1600’s it would work to keep me alive if I had to deal with the End of The World As We Know it…

Now back to French cuisine…

Creme fraiche or (Crème fraîche for the haughty) is a think fermented liquid cream, like yogurt. Because it has greater than 30% fat content It can be used to finish hot sauces without curdling.

Making it is pretty simple, all you do is add a starter culture to heavy cream, and allowing it to stand at appropriate temperature until thick.

What starter culture should you use? – Buttermilk comes to mind.

The ratio of cream to buttermilk doesn’t really matter all that much.

Add more buttermilk and you’ll need less time for it to thicken (but it’ll be less creamy). .

Add more, and it takes longer, but tastes better.

One tablespoon per cup (that’s a 1:16 ratio) is the closest to the European product.

With a 1:16 ratio It will be very rich and creamy about 12-hours after mixing.

You can also halt the process early by just refrigerating it to stop the bacterial action.

This is useful if you want a thinner Mexican-style crema agria for drizzling over tacos or nachos.

Yes we are dealing with room temperature milk, but for the safety nellies, the good bacteria from the buttermilk prevents the dangerous bacteria from taking over.

Store in the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks.

The Home Creamery: Make Your Own Fresh Dairy Products; Easy Recipes for Butter, Yogurt, Sour Cream, Creme Fraiche, Cream Cheese, Ricotta, and More!

Discover how easy it is to make fresh dairy products at home! You don’t need a commercial kitchen or specialty ingredients to whip up your own cheeses, yogurts, and spreads. With simple step-by-step instructions that don’t require complicated aging techniques, you can add a wonderful range of tart, sweet, and nutty flavors to your cooking. From fresh buttermilk for mouthwatering pancakes to creamy mozzarella in a refreshing Caprese salad, you’ll soon enjoy the fresh flavors of your homemade dairy creations. 
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Kitchen DIY: Basic Dutch Oven Tips

Dutch Oven TipsIf you are a prepper then a Dutch Oven is a must have item.

The dutch oven tips in this article make it versatile enough that you can use it cook anything you cook in a regular oven.

You can make pies, bread, stew, roasts outdoors using hot charcoal instead of inside using a traditional oven.

Dutch Ovens are just metal cooking pot. Most often they are made of heavy cast-iron. They come in all sorts of dimensions and configurations, but if you plan on cooking on a fire, get one that has three short legs on the bottom, and a tight fitting lid with a rim to hold coals.

Dutch Ovens that do not have legs, are flat on the bottom, and have a highly domed lid without the coal ring are more useful inside the home to cook beans or stews on the stove.

In order to cook using a Dutch Oven you must properly season. I prefer to get “antique” cast iron from auctions, but my current “Kitchen” version was bought new from Lodge. These new ovens come coated with a waxy material to protect it. They call this “pre-seasoned” or even “seasoned”, but in my experience it is not.

Seasoning is needed to create the non-stick properties of a well-used cast iron cooking implement, and it takes some time.

To season your new Dutch Oven:

  • Wash the Dutch Oven with mild soapy water, rinse, and dry completely.
  • Grease inside and out (pot, legs, and lid) lightly with a good grade of olive or vegetable oil (I prefer solid shortening e.g., Crisco). If you are not going to use this often do not use lard or other animal products as they can turn rancid!
  • Do not use a spray in coating, but rather use an oil soaked paper towel or new sponge.
  • Place greased Dutch Oven upside down on oven rack with lid separate and put aluminum foil underneath to catch any excess oil. Bake in a 300-350 degree oven for at least 1 hour (Do this when your spouse is gone, because it will smoke up the house).
  • It will take more than this initial seasoning for the pot to obtain the desired uniform carbon coating that makes the pot non-stick as well as protects it from rust.

Luckily the seasoning on your Dutch Oven will improve with each use if it is properly oiled and cared for.

Once your Dutch Oven is seasoned it should never be scrubbed with soap.

Store the oven in a warm, dry place with the lid cracked so air can circulate inside.

Now For Some Cooking Tips:

  • For easy cleanup, line the bottom and the sides of the Dutch Oven with aluminum foil.
  • Use a wooden spoon to stir, and always cook with the lid on.
  • Unless you like ashes in your food, don’t tilt the lid when you remove it.
  • A Dutch oven seems indestructible, but it will shatter if dropped on hard cement or it will crack if cold water is poured into a very hot Dutch oven.
  • NEVER, REPEAT, NEVER! pour very cold water into an empty hot pot or you may cause permanent damage to the oven (cracking)!
  • Heat control is the hardest thing to master when learning to cook with a Dutch Oven. Remember to start with moderate temperatures. You can always add more heat if desired or necessary. Be cautious, as most guests don’t enjoy burned food!
  • High quality briquettes are recommended. Briquettes provide a long lasting, even heat source and are easier to use than wood coals. (but as preppers learn to cook using coals from a wood fire)
  • Briquettes will last for about an hour and will need to be replenished if longer cooking times are required.
  • Group the smaller briquettes and add new ones (hot) as required to maintain the desired temperature.
  • Rule of thumb: Each briquette adds between 10 & 20 degrees.

Different types of cooking requires different placement of the briquettes. Here are a few general rules for briquette placement:

  • For Roasting: The heat source comes from the top and bottom equally. This requires twice as many coals on top as on the bottom.
  • For Baking: The heat source comes from the top more than the bottom. Place 3 times as many coals on the lid.
  • For Boiling, Frying, Stewing, Simmering: All of the heat comes from the bottom. All coals are placed beneath the Dutch Oven.

Place the required # of briquettes under the oven bottom in a circular pattern so they are at least 1/2″ inside the Dutch Oven’s edge. Arrange briquettes on top in a checkerboard pattern.

Do not bunch the coals as this causes hot spots.

To prevent hot spots during cooking, rotate the entire oven 1/4 turn and then rotate just the lid ¼ turn in the opposite direction. Rotate every 10-15 minutes.

If you use wood coals, remember that the flame will be much hotter than the coals! Avoid direct flames on the pot or turn frequently.
Keep in mind that the weather, ambient temperature, and ground conditions can affect cooking temperature.

Here is a guide for the amount of charcoal briquettes needed for different sized Dutch Ovens to reach a desired temperature level:


  • 325 degrees – 15 coals …OR… 10 on top / 5 on bottom
  • 350 degrees – 16 coals …OR… 11 on top / 5 on bottom
  • 375 degrees – 17 coals …OR… 11 on top / 6 on bottom
  • 400 degrees – 18 coals …OR… 12 on top / 6 on bottom
  • 425 degrees – 19 coals …OR… 13 on top / 6 on bottom
  • 450 degrees – 20 coals …OR… 14 on top / 6 on bottom


  • 325 degrees – 19 coals …OR… 13 on top / 6 on bottom
  • 350 degrees – 21 coals …OR… 14 on top / 7 on bottom
  • 375 degrees – 23 coals …OR… 16 on top / 7 on bottom
  • 400 degrees – 25 coals …OR… 17 on top / 8 on bottom
  • 425 degrees – 27 coals …OR… 18 on top / 9 on bottom
  • 450 degrees – 29 coals …OR… 19 on top / 10 on bottom


  • 325 degrees – 23 coals …OR… 16 on top / 7 on bottom
  • 350 degrees – 25 coals …OR… 17 on top / 8 on bottom
  • 375 degrees – 27 coals …OR… 18 on top / 9 on bottom
  • 400 degrees – 29 coals …OR… 19 on top / 10 on bottom
  • 425 degrees – 31 coals …OR… 21 on top / 10 on bottom
  • 450 degrees – 33 coals …OR… 22 on top / 11 on bottom


  • 325 degrees – 30 coals …OR… 20 on top / 10 on bottom
  • 350 degrees – 32 coals …OR… 21 on top / 11 on bottom
  • 375 degrees – 34 coals …OR… 22 on top / 12 on bottom
  • 400 degrees – 36 coals …OR… 24 on top / 12 on bottom
  • 425 degrees – 38 coals …OR… 25 on top / 13 on bottom
  • 450 degrees – 40 coals …OR… 26 on top / 14 on bottom


  • 325 degrees – 34 coals …OR… 22 on top / 12 on bottom
  • 350 degrees – 36 coals …OR… 24 on top / 12 on bottom
  • 375 degrees – 38 coals …OR… 25 on top / 13 on bottom
  • 400 degrees – 40 coals …OR… 27 on top / 13 on bottom
  • 425 degrees – 42 coals …OR… 28 on top / 14 on bottom
  • 450 degrees – 44 coals …OR… 30 on top / 14 on bottom

NOTE: For cooking times over an hour additional charcoal may be necessary. Either have another batch ready to go after about an hour and a half or, at about an hour, place unlit briquettes next to those on and under the oven to ignite them.

Lodge L12DCO3 Deep Camp Dutch Oven, 8-Quart

Lodge Logic 8-Quart Cast-Iron Camp Dutch Oven

Camp Dutch Oven
Flip lid to use as griddle

The Lodge portable “camp stove” is the pot that does it all. The flanged lid holds hot coals and inverts for use as a griddle. The integral legs allow the oven to sit perfectly over hot coals. Includes Camp Dutch Oven Cooking 101 book.

From colonial hearth fires to the campfires of Lewis and Clark, cast iron camp ovens fed the colonists, helped tame the wilderness, and did their share in settling the American West. Cast iron cookware has long been treasures as sought after heirlooms, so much so that, when Lewis and Clark returned from their journey west, their trusted cast iron pots were among the few items making it back to civilization.

Like whiskey and tall tales, Lodge Cast Iron improved with age. There are few companies who can boast that products they made over 100 years ago remain in use today, and are still in high demand. You just won’t find anyone who knows camp oven cooking like Lodge. Our camp ovens have proven themselves with avid outdoorsmen and patio pioneers from Tennessee to Tokyo. When you create a meal in Lodge Cast Iron, you create a memory that lasts a lifetime.

Many of the pieces of cast iron cookware made in the Lodge Foundry over a century ago remain in use today.

The Lodge Cast Iron Dutch Oven is a multi-functional cookware that works wonders with slow-cooking recipes. It comes with a tight-fitting lid that helps lock in nutrition and flavor. This pre-seasoned Dutch Oven works like a charm right out of the box. Made of cast iron, this Dutch Oven evenly distributes heat from the bottom through the sidewalls. Also, it retains heat better so your delicious meal remains warm for a long time. Sporting a stylish black color, the cast iron Dutch Oven looks good in most kitchens and it doubles up as an excellent source of nutritional iron. It features loop handles for convenient handling and the oven is easy to clean and maintain.

A simple Cast-Iron Dutch Oven, like the one your grandmother used, still ranks as one of the best cooking utensils ever made. It gives you a nearly non-stick surface, without the possible harmful fumes generated by preheating chemically treated nonstick cookware.

Many of the pieces of cast iron cookware made in the Lodge Foundry over a century ago remain in use today.

Camp Dutch Oven
Legs Allow Oven to be Set Over Hot Coals


  • Made of cast iron
  • Pre-seasoned and ready to use
  • Multi-functional cookware
  • Virtually non-stick surface
  • Brutally tough for decades of cooking
  • Easy to clean-hand wash, dry, rub with cooking oil

Detailed Highlights:

Superior Cooking Performance

Tightly controlled metal chemistry and exacting mold tolerances deliver consistent quality for even heating and superior cooking performance.

Hang Over Hearth or Campfire

Heavy gauge wire bale can be used for hanging the oven over the hearth or campfire.

Sturdy Legs

Three integral legs allow the oven to be perfectly spaced over hot coals.

Snug Fitting Lid

Flanged to contain hot coals on top so the oven can be used for baking, stewing, and roasting. The versatile lid can be inverted for use as a griddle.

Multi-Functional Cookware

The right tool for searing, sauteing, simmering, braising, baking, roasting, and frying.

Made of Cast-Iron

Cast-Iron is a form of cookware developed over a millennia ago remains as popular today as when it was used to prepare meals hundreds of years ago. Cast Iron is one of only two metals compatible with induction stovetops. Unparalleled in heat retention and even heating.

Can Be Used With a Variety of Heat Sources

At home in the oven, on the stove, on the grill or over the campfire. Skillet may be used on various heat sources including gas, electric and induction. Seasoned cast iron can also be used on the grill or open fire and coals for camp cooking. Begin heating cookware on low and slowly bring heat up to medium or medium/high. Always remove cookware from the stovetop after cooking.


Seasoned for a natural, easy-release finish that improves with use.

Seasoning is a necessary step in using cast iron cookware. Oil is baked into the pores of the iron at the foundry to prevent rusting and to eventually provide a natural, non-stick cooking surface. Unlike synthetically coated cookware, it is possible to restore the cooking surface of cast iron.

Lodge uses a proprietary soy-based vegetable oil to season our cookware. The oil contains no animal fat or peanut oil. The seasoning is functional application and slight inconsistencies may appear in the seasoning finish. The inconsistencies will not affect cooking performance.

Easy to Care for

Easy: hand wash, dry, rub with cooking oil. It is very important to replenish the seasoning of your cast iron cookware by applying a thin layer of oil after each cleaning. Seasoning is an on-going process. The more you use cast iron, the seasoning is improved.

Camp Dutch Oven
Bail handle for use with tripod

Using Your Lodge Cast Iron

Rinse with hot water (do not use soap), and dry thoroughly.

Before cooking, apply vegetable oil to the cooking surface of your pan and pre-heat the pan slowly (always start on low heat, increasing the temperature slowly).

Once the utensil is properly pre-heated, you are ready to cook.

TIP: Avoid cooking very cold food in the pan, as this can promote sticking.

PLEASE REMEMBER: Handles will become very hot in the oven, and on the stovetop. Always use an oven mitt to prevent burns when removing pans from oven or stovetop.

Care and Cleaning of your Lodge Cast Iron

After cooking, clean utensil with a stiff nylon brush and hot water. Using soap is not recommended, and harsh detergents should never be used. (Avoid putting a hot utensil into cold water. Thermal shock can occur causing the metal to warp or crack).

If you are having trouble removing stuck-on food, boil some water in your pan for a few minutes to loosen residue, making it easier to remove.

Towel dry immediately and apply a light coating of oil to the utensil while it is still warm.

TIP: Do not let your cast iron air dry, as this can promote rust.

Store in a cool, dry place. If you have a cover, or lid, for your utensil, place a folded paper towel in between lid and utensil allowing air to circulate. This prevents moisture from collecting inside the utensil, which can cause rust.

TIP: The oven is a great place to store your cast iron; just remember to remove it before turning on the oven.

NEVER wash in dishwasher.

If for some reason your utensil develops a metallic smell or taste, or perhaps rust spots (maybe a well-meaning relative washed your utensil in the dishwasher or with soap thinking they were being helpful), never fear. Simply scour off the rust using a very fine grade of sandpaper or steel wool and refer to our section on re-seasoning.

Re-Seasoning your Lodge Cast Iron

While maintaining the seasoning should keep your Cast Iron in good condition, at some point you may need to repeat the seasoning process. If food sticks to the surface, or you notice a dull, gray color, repeat the seasoning process:

Wash the cookware with hot, soapy water and a stiff brush. (It is okay to use soap this time because you are preparing to re-season the cookware).

Rinse and dry completely.

Apply a thin, even coating of MELTED solid vegetable shortening (or cooking oil of your choice) to the cookware (inside and out).

Place aluminum foil on the bottom rack of the oven to catch any dripping.

Set oven temperature to 350 ? 400 degrees F.

Place cookware upside down on the top rack of the oven.

Bake the cookware for at least one hour. After the hour, turn the oven off and let the cookware cool in the oven.

Store the cookware uncovered, in a dry place when cooled.

Why should I choose Lodge cookware over other brands?

For over 112 years, Lodge has provided quality cast iron cookware and accessories, with a broad and innovative assortment. Our continued commitment to quality enables Lodge to offer a superior product line.

How is the diameter measurement of Lodge Cookware determined?

We measure from outside rim to outside rim across the top of the cookware, not the bottom.

What type utensils are recommended to be used with Lodge products?

We recommend using wood or silicone utensils to avoid scratching.

Why should soap or detergent not be used to clean cast iron cookware?

Soap and detergent are used to break down and remove oils. Since the seasoning of your cast iron consists of oil, cleaning with soap will strip or remove the seasoning from cookware.

Are there any types of food that are not recommended to be cooked in cast iron cookware?

Foods which are very acidic (i.e. beans, tomatoes, citrus juices, etc.) should not be cooked in a cast iron utensil until the cookware is highly seasoned. The high acidity of these foods will strip the seasoning and result in discoloration and metallic tasting food. Wait until cast iron is better seasoned to cook these types of foods.

Lodge is a Green Foundry:

Lodge is a zero hazardous waste stream foundry. Lodge designed a vegetable oil recycler for the seasoning process to reduce waste and unusable oil is recycled and used as biodiesel generator. Lodge uses recycled and biodegradable packing materials. Reuse of foundry sand used in the casting process is recycled and unusable sand, working to purify the water of the local streams and planting trees to improve air quality and beautification.

Lodge History:

Lodge is the oldest family-owned cookware foundry in America. Since 1896, the Lodge family has been casting premium iron cookware at their Tennessee foundry. Starting with raw materials and finishing with their seasoning process, they continue to improve on the highest quality standards that go into every piece we make. As the sole American manufacturer of cast iron cookware, they are proud to carry on the legacy started by founder Joseph Lodge. Lodge doesn’t just make cast iron; they make heirlooms that bring people together for generations.

List Price:$110.53 USD
New From:$56.93 USD In Stock

Bottle Feeding Baby Goats

Bottle Feeding Baby Goats

Bottle Feeding Baby Goats (the goats above are not ours)

I wanted to share my families experiences with our first time bottle feeding baby goats.

I am no expert in goats, our two Nubian bucklings are my first ever foray into the world of goat roping (although I did rope a goat in Tunisia once – but they would not let me bring it back on ship (USS Saipan MEU 24)…

My wife did raise Boar goats with her parents when she was a teen, and the thing that sealed the deal on my desire to propose was a picture of her holding a sick baby goat and attempting to heal it.

The other day one of the Facebook groups I am a member of had a post where a family had wanted to give away some baby bucklings for free – and since my wife had been wanting to get my boy something to learn to take care of, and I wanted goats and did not want to spend $1500 on an Australian Shepherd, I convinced my bride I would help her bottle feed each morning at 5 am.

Unfortunately I had to leave the next morning to spend some time at the academy getting certified in some new instructor skills so I have not really had the opportunity to get out the nice warm bed and brave the cold and the rain to bottle feed these goats.

My wife, however, has had more experience lately than she bargained for, and has some words to say on the matter:


Highlights: Package of 3 lamb nipples The nipple is soft and pliable, with a natural shape for the tender mouths of lambs, kids, piglets, foals, and other small livestock Made with a special rubber formula to prolong nipple life and improve pliability These nipples are designed to fit snugly
List Price:$4.70 USD
New From:$2.33 USD In Stock