Rather it is to demonstrate that cleaning your pistol does not have to be a drawn out affair, and that in some cases (like lubrication) a little is better than a lot.
You will need the following materials to properly clean your gun:
- appropriately sized cleaning patches
- a quality cleaning rod
- bore brush of the appropriate caliber for your gun
- a slotted tip for threading cleaning patches onto your cleaning rod
- a gun cleaning toothbrush
- gun cleaner/solvent
- gun oil
- a lint-free cleaning rag.
Starting with an unloaded handgun in a room without ammunition…
With your pistol facing in a safe direction, remove the magazine, and then lock the slide to the rear and both visually and physically check to ensure the handgun is empty.
If it is, field strip the handgun.
Clean the barrel.
- Thread brass bore brush on your cleaning rod, wet with solvent.
- Insert the cleaning rod into the breech end of the barrel and swab out the chamber and bore.
- Work the wet brush back and forth through the entire length of the barrel at least five or six times.
- Replace the brush with the slotted tip.
- Thread a dry patch in the tip and using full–length, rotating passes, scrub until the bore is shiny and clean when inspected under a bright light.
- Dampen the large end of your toothbrush with some solvent and vigorously scrub carbon deposits off of the barrel hood and feed ramp.
- Wipe the exterior of the barrel down with a solvent dampened rag or patch.
- Dry out the bore by swabbing with clean, dry patches until the patches come out clean and dry.
- With a dry patch, wipe down the exterior of the barrel. Put the barrel aside for now.
Clean the slide.
- Holding the slide vertically, muzzle down, use the toothbrush to brush clean the breech face, the extractor, and the area around the extractor.
- Keep in mind that you want to avoid getting solvent into the firing pin channel.
- Solvent and lubricants collect dirt and grime and you don’t want to cake or grease up your firing pin and firing pin channel! This could cause your gun to fail to function.
- Brush the slide rail cuts and the inside of the slide with the tooth brush.
- Using a slightly solvent dampened rag or patch, clean the underside/inside of the slide. You can also use the wide end of the toothbrush to scrub the inside of the slide. Dampen the with solvent and vigorously scrub the slide rail cuts.
- Use a clean, dry patch to wipe down the interior of the slide and slide rails.
Clean the receiver.
- Using the toothbrush; brush off carbon deposits on the metal contact points as well as the locking block on the receiver. Use some solvent if necessary, and if so, then use dry patches or a dry rag to wipe off excess solvent.
- Using your toothbrush; brush out any unburned gunpowder and debris from the interior of the receiver.
- Make sure to wipe clean the locking block, the trigger bar, the connector, the cruciform, and the ejector. (See the Glock owner’s manual for a list of parts.)
Lubricate the pistol.
You just need six drops of oil. Use a quality gun lubricant/rust protective oil. More is NOT better…
- Hold the slide such that the slide rail cuts face upward and the muzzle end is canted slightly downward. Using a lubricant applicator, drag one drop of lubricant down the entire length of each slide rail cut.
- Apply one drop of lubricant to the front inside of the slide which rubs against the upper portion of the barrel.
- Wipe down your barrel’s exterior with one of the oil dampened patches or the oil dampened rag that you’ve used for cleaning.
- With your lubricant applicator, apply one drop of oil on the rear side of the barrel lug and one drop on the outside front of the barrel.
- Hold the receiver in your strong hand, left side facing down. Apply one drop of oil to the curved, upper extension of the connector, at the right rear corner of the receiver/frame where the rear end of the trigger bar touches the connector.
- That is six drops of oil total… On the breech face, under the firing pin hole there is a weep hole to allow debris to be pushed out of the firing pin chamber – all too often people think it is a lube point. DO NOT put oil in this hole…
Reassemble the pistol and function check the reassembled gun.
- To function test, make sure your reassembled gun is unloaded and keep it pointed in a safe direction!
- Rack the slide several times and make sure the slide moves and cycles freely and smoothly.
- With the pistol facing in a safe direction, press the trigger rearward. Make sure the trigger works.
- Rack the slide again to return it into battery and reset the trigger.
- Make sure that the trigger resets into its forward, cocked position.
- With your pistol still pointed in a safe direction, press the trigger rearward and hold it to the rear.
- You should hear and feel the firing pin fall.
- Pull the slide to its most rearward position and release it.
- After the slide has snapped into its forward, in-battery position, release the trigger.
- The trigger should reset to its forward, cocked position. Repeat several times to be sure.
- With your pistol pointing in a safe direction, grasp the sides of the trigger without touching or depressing the trigger safety, which is the trigger in front of and within the trigger.
- The trigger safety should remain engaged and as such, prevent the trigger from moving rearward and releasing the firing pin.
Slide lock open test:
- Insert an empty magazine into your in-battery pistol.
- Firmly pull the slide all the way rearward and it should lock open.
- That is it, this entire process is short, sweet, and keeps the gun working properly
I would suggest that when done with your cleaning/function checking/dry firing procedures you verbally state “I am now done cleaning my gun” this will set up a small mental block to keep you from being one of those “Moron shot himself cleaning his gun” guys that went from function checking, to reloading a carry gun, got distracted, and then went back to function checking and fired a gun they forgot they loaded.
It sounds stupid, but it happens, and every little bit you do to prevent accidents is more better….
Be certain to check the firing pin protrusion using the screwdriver / protrusion tool found in the Mosin Nagant Cleaning kit. IMHO, if you do not have this tool, buying the entire cleaning kit is well worth the money, because some unscrupulous vendors have replica tools that are not to spec and do not accurately measure protrusion. I have never heard of a replica tool being sold as part of a surplus kit.
The reason bolt protrusion is important because if the firing pin does not protrude far enough out of the bolt the gun will not fire, and if it protrudes too far it can puncture the primer and cause hot combustion gasses to leave the bolt and move into your face…
Either of these situations can be extremely dangerous and are not part of the enjoyable use of your moist nugget.
To check protrusion,, verify that the bolt is in its “fired” position and that the firing pin is flush with the cocking piece.
The index marks must be aligned.
Second, the firing pin must (at least) touch the top of the milled out area below the number “75” on the protrusion gauge. If it does not, firing pin protrusion is insufficient. Be certain that there is no gap between the bolt head and bolt body (hold them together) when performing this test.
Finally, the firing pin must not touch the top of the milled out area under the number “95”. If it does, firing pin protrusion is excessive.
If you do not have the teardrop shaped too you should order one, but if you have a caliper, the firing pin must protrude at least .075 inches, but cannot exceed .095 inches.
A matched bolt should not have a protrusion problem, assuming the firing pin and the cocking piece are flush and the index marks are aligned, I would be suspect of a private sale that had protrusion problems (I would wonder if it was pieces together from various guns – but that is just me)
You can adjust firing pin protrusion by turning the firing pin in the cocking piece. The bolt will have to be disassembled (or cocked) because there is a notch that normally prevents the firing pin to rotate and change protrusion.
Usually having the rear end of the firing pin flush with the back of the cocking piece gives you the correct adjustment.
In Tennessee it is not a legal requirement to inform a law enforcement officer of your carry permit and armed status. (In some states it is – so know your law). However, I believe it is a good idea. Like my CCW vs Open carry video I am making a distinction between your rights and what is the response that is most likely to shorten rather than lengthen your encounter with the police. If you choose not to inform them then that’s your right and your judgment, just know if they find out they will revert to their training and have to decide wither you are a threat to them before they can resume the discussion.
I commute some distance to work, and have gotten pulled over for speeding on more than one occasion. I will describe my response to illustrate the mindset I have as well as to help you see why it works.
First as soon as I see the lights I let loose a mental expletive – I know I shouldn’t but I do… Then I forget it – do not get mad – they are doing their job, and I know I was in the wrong – from that point until I am driving everything is geared toward getting back on the road and not being locked up in the cruiser…
I hit my turn signals to show I saw them and am pulling over, I find a spot off of the road wide enough for my car and the patrol car. If this is not immediately available I want the officer to know I am not running… I do not try to put my seatbelt on, get my papers, or throw out my cigarette (Don’t tell my wife, but after a hard day I may smoke a cigar to relax) – the officer can see your shoulders move and too much movement may make him think your being evasive.
I pull over far enough so that the officer can use his car as a shield against traffic. Some departments have to officer come from the passenger side due to several cops being killed by passing cars. Getting out of the patrol car on a busy highway is dangerous, and being considerate to the officer’s safety helps start building a sense of safety in the cop – REMEMBER if he sees you as a threat you may see the muzzle of his gun…
I keep my hands on the wheel so he can see them, and I wait until he knocks on my door to roll down the window. (I do not roll it down all the way for legal reasons, but enough to converse with the officer. I also replace my hands on the wheel after I roll down the window.)
I wait for the officer to speak (also for legal reasons I do not answer the part about do you know why I pulled you over – if you tell him then you are admitting a criminal act, if you say no your lying about it)… When he asks me for license and registration I say, “officer, before I comply, I need to inform you I have a carry permit and my firearm is located ____, what do you want me to do?” Even if I am not armed I say “Officer, when you run my license you will see I have a carry permit, I want to let you know I don’t have a firearm in the vehicle but I wouldn’t want you to think I was hiding that from you”. I used to have a vehicle with a police and highway patrol frequencies; it is pretty standard for dispatch to inform the officer that you have a carry permit when they run your driver’s license. He is going to find out, by telling him first you:
Let him know you’re not hiding anything
You are concerned for his safety
You’re not a felon, a drug abuser, or crazy
If also shows you know how to play the game, understand a little about cops, and have enough disposable income to get a carry permit – basically that you’re a good guy and not worth the hassle…
I then get my papers for the officer
If they are in my glove box I leave it open to show I am not hiding anything
If they are in my center console I shut it so they don’t have to watch to see if I try to slip my hand in to get a weapon.
Remember, police do not know you; they are trained formally, as well as socially not to trust you. The quicker you prove to them that you are no threat the quicker they want to end the incident so they can get back to their work. The vast majority of the cops I know do not have a problem with law abiding citizens owning firearms, and don’t really want to be seen as the bad guy. However, they will give you a ticket in a heartbeat if you deserve one.
In my experience, by following these simple steps I get a “If I give you a warning, do you think you can slow down” more than a “by signing this you are not admitting guilt, just acknowledging that you have received a ticket.”
This is my two cents, based upon my personal experience, as well as social discussions with several cops over the years. The principles that I describe can be applied to any encounter you have with the police. As the video says (before the Department of Safety changed it) – Cops are trained to react to the sight of a gun, and they will…
Far Beyond Defensive Tactics is one of the best defensive tactics books on the market.
I have read, reread, dog-eared, and written in the margins of this book – then went out and bought a new copy just in case.
I have personally used several of the concepts in this book in real life encounters within the walls of state prisons when I worked maximum security after I got out of the Marines.
Christensen is a thinking man’s warrior, and if you judge a man by those around him, he has collaborated with Lt. Col Grossman and Gaven de Becker.
This book should be in the library of anyone concerned about use of force.